The Italian expression for raining cats and dogs is “piove a catinelle”, which literally translates as “it’s raining basins” which would be kind of like buckets. It certainly applied.

After class, because it wasn’t raining, I decided to go see Il Cenacolo del Fuligno, near the church of San Lorenzo, that Google maps says is a 23 minute walk. Information about when it is open is inconsistent among different websites. The “official” Tuscany Museums website says:

It says it is open on Thursday and Friday from 2:30 pm to 5 pm. I had to walk up and down the street, Via Faenza, to find the door and when I found it, it was closed, with a sign saying the hours are on the “official” website.

After walking so far, I decided I might as well stop at a gelateria on my list that I had not tried, Gelateria del Bondi, which had very good nocciola and good, but not top, fondente. I ate inside because it was raining, again.

I looked once more at the “official” website and saw that there was to be a concert and doors would open at 3 pm. I went back and indeed, it was now open.

The Cenacolo (Last Supper) was done for an order of Franciscan nuns originating from Umbria, who were in “clausura” (cloistered) so the fresco wasn’t seen for centuries except by those allowed into the convent.

It was by Perugino, whose name was Pietro Vannucci, from Perugia (thus the nickname) a city in Umbria. Perugino is now most famous as the teacher of Raffello Sanzio (Raphael) but was considered one of the top painters during his lifetime. His frescoes are on the walls of the Sistine Chapel, although some got covered over by Michelangelo’s Last Judgement.

One problem I have with his later paintings are that the faces all tend to look alike but these, which are earlier in his career, aren’t too similar. His drawings show some distinction.

Since the 19th century the former convent has been a museum on different themes or once, a storage and restoration place for art. Its current focus is works by Perugino, his assistants or those influenced by him. And apparently used for concerts.

People started coming in for the concert so I decided to leave. I should have stayed and would have avoided getting soaked in the rain.