Roma: second day: art, architecture and artichokes in the Centro Storico

Poured rain during the night so our little balcony or more accurately, our chairs, were too wet to enjoy as a breakfast spot.

The baby seagulls are better than a morning alarm clock.

Our walk in the historic centre, or centro storico, took us past Borromini’s Sant’Ivo alle Sapienza, one of my favourite buildings.

We headed across the Tiber River to Trastevere, which means across the Tiber, to go to Villa Farnesina.

The villa is pretty much entirely covered in frescoes, the most famous of which is by Raphael.

Galatea by Raphael:

If I recall correctly, he died shortly after completing this so much of the rest of the room and other rooms were finished by his workshop or other artists.

Another room done by mostly his workshop:

Room decorated by another artist whose name escapes me. What looks like draperies is painted.

Another room:

We headed back across the river.

Into the Jewish Ghetto area.

We put our names on the list for lunch at Sora Margherita, a traditional Jewish Ghetto restaurant that does not take reservations. We had to wait, but they have chairs since many people have to wait.

We were jammed in so tightly, I could not get my camera out of my bag. But Scott caught me looking at my favourite carciofo alla guidea, fried artichoke.

Also had a really good pasta, agnoletti, a lamb stuffed pasta.

We then wanted to go to nearby Palazzo Spada. We walked in circles trying to find the entrance. It is located in the same building as the Consigliere de Stato or some government office, it appears, so was full of police at the front entrance. We went to see Borromini’s perspective gallery.

It looks like a long colonnade featuring a large statue at the end. But it is actually forced perspective as the guard willingly demonstrated.

Today was about two houses where the owners were showing off how wealthy they were. Across from the Palazzo was a fountain Scott found amusing:

It’s not clear in the photo that water is spouting from her breasts.  Then a stop at Piazza Navona to see Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers and Borromini’s church of Sant’Agnese in Agone:

Then  more wandering  for supplies for the apartment. Piazza Montecitorio has what is called the Obelisk of Montecitorio in the centre of the piazza.

We can see the top from our apartment.

Dinner was at Enoteca al Parlemento Achilli. An Enoteca is a wine shop. Some have a restaurant in the back.

This one was unexpectedly upscale. A great feature was you buy your wine from the shop and it is served with the meal with no added mark up.

Fish with a name I cannot remember .


Cuttlefish in a bean and bacon soup.

Potato, lamb and gold leaf.

Waddling home past Marcus Aurelius Column or Colonna Antonine.

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