Napoli: il sesto giorno: Centro Storico

Our visit in Naples itself has been more of a journey on the less well travelled paths, if we exclude the Museo Nazionale. Today we went to the historic centre, which was very busy, but we stopped at places which did not have crowds. First to Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano on busy Via Toledo to see Caravaggio’s Martyrdom of Saint Ursula. This was the last painting he ever painted.

The gallery is in a building belonging to a bank but used to be a rich 17th century family’s “palace” or palazzo.

The Caravaggio is the most significant work in the collection.. When originally acquired, it was not thought to be by Caravaggio so was modestly valued.  Now it is worth multi-millions.

A trek of a bit over a kilometre got us to the ancient Roman area.

A further walk along Via dei Tribunali, the old Roman Decumani or main west east road, took us to Pio Monte della Misericordia to see Caravaggio’s Seven Works of Mercy.

Our driver from yesterday, Mario, told us we shouldn’t leave Naples without eating pizza in the historic centre. The most popular places had long queues, like Sorbillo. Some bloggers claim the wait is worth it, but Scott was not convinced, especially since standing on cobblestone hurts his knees.

We found another spot.

The tomatoes and tomato sauce were so tasty I forgot to take a photo.

We wanted to go to Capella Sansevero to see the Veiled Christ statue. But there was a long queue in the sun. We had avoided them so far so we were not prepared to start standing after doing so much walking.

We then went to the Borgo degli Orifici, the neighbourhood where jewellery is manufactured. It took two visits because the first time all the shops were closed, but Scott finally found a ring.

We haven’t seen some of the major sights like Castel Uovo, San Martino, Posillipo or the Royal Palace, and we leave tomorrow. Guess we need to return.

Dinner at a traditional Neopolitan restaurant.

Insalata caprese, and prosciutto and melone:

Fish under potato and fusilli with ragù:

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