The area east and north of the Vatican called Prati or Rione Prati was an unexplored neighbourhood for me. It is also where Castel Sant’Angelo is located, which is big on tourist lists but I had never visited there.
After thinking I was doing so well with navigating, I decided to go to a shop before my time ticket entry to Castel Sant’Angelo. Google maps said it would take 12 minutes to get there. But after walking 30 minutes, I was still 10 minutes away. I had walked 45 degrees in the wrong direction. Guess I should have checked google maps sooner.
I gave up and headed to Castel Sant’Angelo which is along the river and hard to miss.
The building started as a mausoleum for the emperor Hadrian. The central round drum held his cremated ashes.
Above, the entrance area which has been stripped of its decoration including a statue of Hadrian, now in the Vatican museum.
In the middle ages, during the papal strife with various claimants as popes, the building was turned into a fortress.
For a time it was also used as a prison.
Much of what remains are the rooms intended for papal use.
Decorated with the trendy style of the times. The above and below were done under the pontificate of Paul III, who also had Michelangelo paint the Last Judgement in the Sistine Chapel.
A lot of tourists come for the views.
The best view is the 360 view from the top but I started up the stairs and saw that the guard wall was glass. So I turned around. Because the floor plan is circular, I found another way to the main reception room.
Some of the side rooms had some interesting art.
The above is by Luca Signorelli, an early Renaissance painter. It is in surprisingly good condition.
Below by Lorenzo Lotto
There were also modern art displays.
The loggias or outdoor porch areas are also spectacular.
With great views
The tour involved a lot of stairs.
I treated myself to lunch at a nearby restaurant, Flavio Velavevodetto. During artichoke season, he supposedly does a good carciofi alla giudea, but artichokes needed for that dish are still a few months from coming into season. Instead I had coniglio, patate frite and puntarelle. I’m going to have to go to the Jewish Ghetto for a restaurant serving carciofi alla giudea out of season.
In order to digest, I walked a bit around the neighbourhood. The audio guide for Castel Sant’Angelo said this is one of the richest neighbourhoods in Rome and home to many lawyers and accountants.
After, I went to a Lazio region wine tasting.
This tasting was all regional grapes, natural production and thus small out put. Never going to see these wines at home but it was interesting to learn the range and maybe I can sample some more while I’m here.
As I walked home, I tried to capture how fast it gets dark but the phone camera over lightens the sky. In any event, this was the progress over 45 minutes:
