I used Voice Map, an app where you can download self-guided walks. It uses GPS so it knows where you are and can tell you about an area or building or specific site when it knows you are there. It also recognizes when you are off route. Ian McKellen’s voice says “Not all who wander are lost, but it looks like you might be”. We heard his voice when we used the app in Basel in 2022.
This time, I followed the History of the Jewish Ghetto in Florence tour. The walk started on the Oltrano side of the Ponte Vecchio, which wasn’t too busy Sunday morning.
The above tower was where the first synagogue was believed to have been located. The first Jewish settlement in Florence was in Oltrano, outside the historic centre during the medieval period but possibly as early as Roman times. During the early and high Renaissance, the Medici were influential in protecting the Jewish population and more lived in the historic centre but not without problems.
An incident of anti-Semitism is carved in marble on the Madonna statue on Orsanmichele.
The Latin inscription refers to an incident in 1493 (after the death of Lorenzo the Magnificent) where a Jewish man was accused of defiling the statue. He confessed, under torture, and sentenced to have his hands amputated but before the sentence could be carried out, a mob stoned him to death. The hands of his corpse were then amputated.
The Jewish ghetto was created in the historic centre during the Renaissance where the Piazza della Repubblica now exists.
The housing was eliminated during the 19th century to create the current Piazza. By that time, the restrictions on the ghetto had been eliminated and many Jewish men had become very successful in Florence.
Nearby are grand palazzi formerly owned by Jewish Florentines.
Under Mussolini’s Fascist government, and particularly when it became a puppet government under Hitler, Jewish Florentines were sent to concentration camps, although, many were hidden. There are over 100 stolpersteine or stumble stones in Florence.
The above includes a bronze block for a rabbi who was active in the anti-fascist movement.
The walk ends at the main synagogue near Sant’Ambrogio which is next to the Jewish Museum.
The current Israeli government’s activities has made this a spot in need of police presence.
After that cheerful walk, I went to the area near Piazza della Signoria where I could sketch the Bargello.
Added some watercolour back at the apartamento, where there’s some cute paper towels.
I joined a dinner walk which started in front of the Museo Ferragamo, a shoe museum about the shoe designer Salvatore Ferragamo, who became famous in Hollywood making shoes for movie stars before WWII but returned to Florence and established his company here. It was interesting to look at the shoe designs (but sad to think that I can’t wear high heels anymore) and also to see all the famous women who have worn his shoes.
I mostly forgot to take photos of my dinner tour. We started with aperativo which came with coccoli (fried dough), cheeses, meats and bruschetta. It was at La Buchetta which is part of the Palazzo Strozzi businesses. Around the corner is a bookshop which shows movies in the evening.
We then went to Piazza Santo Spirito to Tamarò where we had a pasta tasting. I took a photo because the pici, an eggless pasta, with seasonal tomato sauce was my favourite and I’ll have to look for it while the tomatoes are still in season.
Above are also a raviolo with spinach and ricotta cheese, and tagliatelle with a pesto made with basil and arugula.
We then came to the Santa Croce area for bistecca fiorentina at Club Culinario where the steak pieces I had were overcooked for my liking but the sides — roasted red pepper, pappapomodoro, fried zucchini with mint, and stewed beans — were very good.
We finished at Gelateria dei Neri where I tried buontalenti, a local flavour that includes dessert wine and secret ingredients, and cioccolato Modica. I could go back for both.