Left the hotel and moved to the first apartment. I had a few hours between check out and check in.
On the way to Galleria Spada, I ducked into Santissima Trinità dei Pellegrini which facade was covered in scaffolding.

It had a presepe.

Went to Galleria Spada where Scott and I went in 2018 to see Borromini’s perspective colonnade but didn’t have time to look in the gallery. The building was constructed in the 17th century by a cardinal from the Spada family.

There was a presepe in the courtyard.


The rooms for the gallery date from the 17th century and the paintings and much of the furniture remain in their original arrangements. It gives you an idea of how the houses of the wealthy looked but doesn’t make for good viewing of the paintings high up on the walls.

Some of the recently conserved works were on special display which made for easier observation.
Although Artemisia Gentilleschi grew up in Rome, she worked elsewhere and the only two paintings of hers in Rome are both at Galleria Spada.

There are a few good Guido Reni, two small Salvatore Rosa and for me, an appealing Carracci, like the Beaneater, not like his religious subjects.

I described the Borromini forced perspective when we went in 2018. It’s an illusionistic bit of architecture by Borromini.
The Palazzo Farnese for which I failed to book tickets.

The Galleria Spada is near the Campo de’Fiori and its market which was going strong although it was noon which is when it usually closes. Maybe the crowd keeps the sellers open. Some tables were pushing hard on selling limoncello. I was interested to check out which vegetables are in season. I’m thinking about what to cook for Christmas dinner.
I also looked at shops for inspiration for Christmas gifts. Time flew by and I needed to confirm my check in to the 3 bedroom apartment where some of the others will join me. Instead of lunch, I tried Tre Scalini gelato. The location right on Piazza Navona made me suspicious but the covered containers instead of open trays suggested the gelato was well made. The nocciola was disappointing with no distinct hazelnut flavour. The chocolate was dense and good. A mixed result.

I took a taxi to the apartment. It’s not that far but uphill and the rolling wheels on cobblestone was more than I wanted to contend with. Twelve euros including tip was well worth it.
The area is quite different from where I was. The streets are much wider and straighter. Lots of 4 and 5 star hotels and fewer small shops and restaurants. Far less historic at least in terms of no obvious Roman ruins lying around but way older than historical buildings in Calgary.




I got checked in and helpfully was directed to the best nearby supermarket Tigre where I bought some basic food for breakfast and some snacks.

It was then time for my last Italian class. The marvels of online learning is the ability to learn anywhere.
The square footage of the apartment was bigger than the main floor of our house. The view from the dining room:






After, I unpacked and then chatted on FaceTime with Scott and Sidney. By then it was time for dinner which was inhaled and not photographed.
A table next to me had a family speaking Spanish which wasn’t helping me retain my recent Italian lesson.
But here was part of yesterday’s dinner which looks like a massive amount of beef, which it was, but was on top if a pile of salad. The more deceptive dish was the spinach which I could not finish nor the three substantial sized bread rolls.
