I bought the Bargello Museums pass because today was going to be rainy so multiple museum visits seemed like a good way to enjoy the day.

I started at the Bargello, as the fortress-like medieval structure is known.

It has had many functions. Before its most recent major restoration in the mid-19th century, it was being used as a prison. The discovery of a fresco believed to be by Giotto and depicting Dante Aligheri during his lifetime motivated the decision to restore the building closer to its original design.

Rain falls in its courtyard.

It now houses Italy’s premier sculpture museum and is well worth multiple visits. I have posted before about the Donatello sculptures of St George and the bronze David (there’s also a marble David).

Some of his less famous works are also in the museum.

After a visit to the ground floor which mainly features Cellini, Giambologna and a few early Michelangelo sculptures, I went to the church of San Lorenzo because I wanted to see the Medici chapels.

Along the way I passed some pietre d’inciampo or stumble stones or stolpersteine, as they were originally named by the German artist Gunter Demnig, who installs them in front of the last known residence of victims of Nazi persecution.

The Medici were the main patrons of the Basilica of San Lorenzo and they have two special separate built chapels. La Sacrestia Nuova, the new sacristy, was commissioned by Pope Leo X, formerly Giovanni di Medici, a younger son of Lorenzo the Magnificent. He was about the same age as Michelangelo and grew up with him when Michelangelo was part of Lorenzo’s household. So when Pope Leo X asked Michelangelo to design the new sacristy, he couldn’t say no.

The sacristy includes the tombs of two forgettable Medicis but is remarkable for Michelangelo’s architectural design which takes classical language and turns it on its head by using the elements in ways unseen in classical Greek and Roman architecture. Michelangelo, despite his reputation as a Renaissance artist, starts the shift toward Baroque architecture or at least, Mannerist architecture.

Because of political events which stopped the funding, the project was never finished. But what remains is significant and a compare and contrast with the old sacristy.

The Bargello museums pass says you get admission to “Le Cappelle Medicee”, the Medici Chapels, plural. But it turned out that I had to buy a separate ticket to see the old sacristy which was part of the admission to the basilica of San Lorenzo.

I wonder if the plural referred to the admission to the “Princes’ Chapel” the name for the 17th century chapel done for the grand dukes which, for me, is a bit of over-the-top-Baroque. This is the style often described as “too much is not enough”. Some people, obviously those during the late Baroque period, love it.

In contrast, the old sacristy is pure Renaissance, designed by Brunelleschi with parts decorated by his pal, Donatello.

There are similarities to the new sacristy but even more to the Pazzi Chapel. And the differences are even more interesting.

Inside the church of San Lorenzo are pulpits by Donatello. They are difficult to see when you’re my height. The work is pretty amazing. Jesus is in each of the three sections, getting higher up the panel and in greater relief—very innovative.

There’s debate about how much of Brunelleschi’s design of the church was changed. One change seems to be the columns. They are not accurate classical language as they are smooth columns topped with corinthian capitals instead of fluted columns.

In contrast, in the old sacristy, the smooth columns are topped by ionic capitals, which is what classical Roman architecture requires. The proportions are also off. The church’s columns are too tall for the width of the arch.

I only visited previously in 2016, so it was educational to return having learned more about art history.

Since I was close, I went to Mercato Centrale. Unlike the Sant’Ambrogio market, this one has a lot more space dedicated to eating places and it was shoulder to shoulder full of people. And I am told the produce is more expensive but I didn’t shop. I was looking for a midday bite to eat and was lucky to find an available table behind an enoteca (wine bar). which offered a vast choice of toppings on crostini.

Since I had a modest lunch, I followed with two different gelaterie.

My Sugar cioccolato was very good for a non-fondente. The La Gelateria, sadly, was fondente but ranks the lowest of all the chocolate I have tried so far and the nocciola was quite sweet. Neither flavour was as creamy as Il Procopio or Perchè No, who are winning the texture contest. On the other hand, if I had this in Calgary, I’d be more than happy.

They also have the most boring coppo or coppetto. The sign outside was cute.

My notes don’t include any recommendations for what to try here. It’s not going to be high on my return list. I’ve got at least 12 other gelaterie to try, although at the rate I’m going, I should be able to return to many of them 😉

Frozen churned milk with sugar are not my only indulgences but so far, I have bought a modest two bottles of wine—Brunello di Montalcino, of course. Once I get over jetlag, for better or worse, this may change.